Niue (Naturally Nice) 1 September 2024

My BHAG AKA,  (alright enough acronyms already) Big Hairy Audacious Goal  Also Known As, dream job, is to be a travel/food writer.  So, in an effort to start an atomic habit (Atomic Habits - James Clear)  as recommended by number #1 daughter, I should start small, hence a blog, now. 

Celebrating life; new (pregnant daughter), old, (pending 60th birthday of patriarch), we packed our bags (carry on x 6) with water play toys and multiple swimwear for our 3 night stay at the Scenic Matavai, Niue. 

As a last hurrah for our nuclear family of four, plus boys before the baby ups the dynamic in December, this wee pearler of an island was chosen.  A veritable no brainer, three hour flight from Auckland, trading in the Kiwi dollar. 

Four days was enough according to the only returning Niue traveler,  to get in many tourist sights on land as well as two chartered adventures off shore. 

The (coral) island ejected out of the ocean a millennia ago, has grown up well.  The island is like an Odering’s warehouse,  but with plants literally growing out of the volcanic rock earth. The fallen coconuts also sprout into palm trees wherever they drop.  The chasms (kaz-ems not chaz-ems) have been punched out of the tiny island by the relentless waves, forming incredible grottos and rock pools, easily accessible  from the  coastal route road, recently updated by the “kindly” efforts of China Aid.  The Chinese workers camp is located close to the airport, recognisable by the swinging red lanterns. 

Whale season was in full swing.  Our sonars were on high alert for the tell tale water spouting, whereupon yelps and running ensued to the edge of the hotel lookout, where we watched in group awe,  as the whales played in their own 5 star resort.

Scenic Matavai picked a prime spot to erect their clifftop resort.  There is access to the ocean close by; onsite and within five minutes from the hotel.  Of course we tried out both,  desperate for full immersion in the crystal clear liquid.

The water clarity is second to none. The crushing waves that beat the surrounding island reef, before lapping over the verge of the flat coral halo, are transparent with visible fish surfing the waves in. The rainwater has been conveniently sieved through the island into the ocean bringing with it, no sediment.   The colour is icy blue in the shallower water, deepening into cobalt hues and then filling out to navy blue where the whales play.

I was pleasantly surprised by the lack of visible rubbish about the island and in the water.  Having been internationally and locally tainted with the impact of the weight of forever plastic on our planet, it seemed less of a problem here.  I put that down to the minuscule permanent population (around 1500) and the infant tourist market.  One common denominator here:  plastic consuming humans. Ugh.

Air NZ is the only airline that flies into Niue.  In season, twice a week on a Tuesday and Saturday.  You can stay for a quick recharge and power tick your way through your checklist or extend to a full week or ten days and really explore the lifestyle and natural beauty of the place at  a more reasonable pace.  

The food available here is the typical island fare of locally caught fish, tuna for days, and mahi mahi for a change.  Coconut, many ways, including basic (non plastic) straw in and drink deeply, to the hard chewable stuff and something bouncy in between which was mysterious to my palate. Niue has its own honey, which is like the water, transparent and runny.  We did not partake of the blue crabs abundant about the island but I did fantasise about them in a curry or deep fried in Asian spices. The many roadside shacks dotting the main road did a bustling trade in varied hours, serving up cold drinks, views and a mixture of deep fried and international fusion dishes dreamt up with whatever was at hand in their sparse arsenal.

The chickens that roamed freely everywhere outnumbered the humans.  A few were caged and I wondered if they appeared on any menus. I saw no visible eggs on my travels. The roosters were like opera singers, gorgeous to look at but a little hard on the ears after a while.  Their persistent crowing had you reaching for their necks in the early hours of the morning. 

The sea snakes are a challenge I’m working on.  I’m not proud of my first encounter.  I was ankle deep when one of the ‘curious’ fellows approached at speed menacingly.  They are very common here, black striped averaging 4cm (D) X 70cm (L).  I froze as this lone villain blocked my escape path to terra firma as I hissed out a cry for help to my husband.  He dutifully talked me out of my hysteria and protected me, from myself.

Daughter number #2 went (voluntarily) scuba diving in the aptly named, Snake Gully a day later,  with her dad and told me the snake’s side of the story.  ‘Apparently’ they have never bitten a person in Niue and they are just curious.  I tried to think of them as long skinny fish as opposed to Niue unique, venomous snakes 10x more potent than your everyday Cobra.

The islanders (like the snakes) are friendly, always waving and smiling. Their singing is hypnotic and soothing, their country, naturally gorgeous and beguiling.  I will return, maybe to cash in my 20% returning voucher from the Scenic Matavai, or to try out a more local authentic experience.

Niue is unique. Like it’s snake. (Obsessing is not a good atomic habit). I will return.