Awake but unprepared to move we lolled about for another hour. 'Zing' our cutsie teenage pursor knocked persistantly at our door. K leaned out the window and summoned up all the manners her mother had taught her to greet her. We were told it was breakfast time "NOW" 7.30am. We begrudgingly readied ourselves and got another terse reminder from Zing. It seemed they had a schedule we were not abiding by.
No amount of table dressing could disguise their disappointing attempt at providing a European breakfast. Nor could any amount of make up disguise my reaction. A sparse and unappetising array of limp white cold toast, bacon cut from a pressing and two fried dead eggs with three pieces of dragon frit awaited my growling stomach. After force feeding myself one piece of white death covered in NZ butter (better) and strawberry jam I filled myself uncustomarily on the Vietnamese coffee in a bid to revive myself.
That over, we were herded onto a rowboat where our captain rowed us 'punt-like''(with oars) to a nearby cave entrance where we passed through to a cute bay to look awhile. The five minute oar back was hampered by a head wind so our sole rower had to dig deep to get all 7 of us back.
Back on board for a slow and peaceful return to the drop off zone ready for collection by our driver. Our entrepreneral staff had many souvenirs to foist upon us and I purchased some lovely little pearl earrings for Georgia for $30USD. A final lunch was gratefully inhaled which left me in high spirits regardless of the downpour that followed our every arrival or departure in Ha Long.
Cossetted back in the car with the same driver from yesterday we resisted the urge to offer the spare seat to the (unwashed) German backpacker. His failure to amuse us on board had left him out on his own. K took up residence in the front seat this time to divert all oncoming traffic through a series of hand signals and shocked expressions and to avoid potential nausea.
A quicker trip back left us 'safely' deposited in our room at the Serenade in Hanoi. Showered and regrouped we then set out in a search of local 'must sees'. We dawdled in raincoats and Crocs combing the shops for all they were worth. We stopped awhile in a really interesting shop choccer with antique foreign (for Vietnam too) jewellery and tried on a really strange array of necklaces and bracelets, me settling on four bracelets to go. The owner was a man with one inch well manicured finger nails who had a really easy feel about him which made the whole transaction quite pleasurable. Some of the stuff looked like artefacts and I got a small bad omen when K put on a snake necklet with an unusaly locking mechanism. With my wrist now six deep in bracelets, I felt satisfied with my ability to maintain a collection and we marched on.
As one can never have too much lacquer ware K purchased a beautiful set of trays and me some shocking pink bowls for Trudi's upcoming birthday. (It is tradition to bring home something pink for Trudi Hall's birthday).
Hungry now, we called into a nearby Vietnamese family run cafe and settled into the cramped area alongside a couple of sets of Australians and a lone Swiss. The Swiss man reminded us of Al HW with his short grey hair and marathon running look so we engaged him in conversation. He was a maths tutor at university and on a wee sojourn (not a paedophile on the make a K had suspected.
We all sat bemused as our teenage waitress repeatedly got every instruction cocked up
while trying valiantly to run the four tables on her own. Her mother looked on from the bar eyes rolling in disdain as we smiled on knowingly.
The food was nice (fried tofu and buttery corn) the drinks average.
Back on the street, renewed, we wandered on taking note of the historic tube house that had long closed and the busying streets amping up for the evening. We were now ready for the main street event as we contemplated a local cafe called the 'Tamarind' with it's large interior and 10% discount and extensive menu we silently concurred and entered. Seated in a well air-conded area on comfy cushioned sofa seats we ordered 2 papaya cocktails, fried mushrooms and a Thai glass noodle salad to complete our vegetarian experience. The drinks, food and rest were well received and we mentally high fived ourselves on another good pick.
With repacking to do for an early start tomorrow we sauntered sated back (skillfully navigated by K) in the direction of our hotel. Nearing the turn off to our street K's scientific navigational calculations had been temporarily displaced by the recent erection of a street market around 100m long. Not one to miss a shopping opportunity or (a recent erection) we lingered through the showery weather already damp and close to a drying zone. Jam packed with sunglasses, wallets, undies, perfumes and make up each stall was much alike. We finally submitted and returned to our expertly positioned hotel Serenade to shower, repack and set the alarm for a 6.45am pickup. Once the entire contents of our bags had been taken out and reinputed we rested easy and put out the light. That's when the mosquitos or some other creature decided to dive bomb me repeatedly. Stealth on its side I couldn't hear it or see it coming but I managed to scratch myself into an irritated slumber woken rudely by the alarm at 5.30am.
Tuesday, November 17, 2009
10 September 2009
*MUST get blog finished ASAP of Asian trip...
Expectations high we dined at the hotel restaurant takingon ample nutrients to get us through the 3 hr drive to Ha Long Bay. Checking out but leaving our bags, we packed an overnight bag and were duly collected at 8.30am. The heat high but the car cooled by air con we set out of the city. Once the traffic thinned all bets were off as our driver hovered habitually over the centre line surging and weaving in turn through the haphazard traffic for three solid hours. Karen turned many shades of green mixed with red as the local driving technique infuriated her. The driver was lucky to escape without a good tongue lashing and follow up cuffing from behind.
As we neared Ha Long, the rain started. We were dropped off at a waiting station whe re we waited patiently for our changeover. We eyed up the other tourists and wondered which of the 600 junks that departed daily was ours. About an hour later (hungry as rabid dogs) we were ferried out to our floating palace (Ha Long Dream). The "Öne Square Meal" was handed out for medicinal use and again it saved the day.
Once on board we were revitalised by the waiting orange juice and the thought of the high seas. The rain had abated as we set sail/motor for the limestone valley.
Seated at beautifully laid out tables we waited impatiently for lunch to be served. With only seven passengers on board and more than seven staff we reveled in the peace. The 6-7 course meal was well received as was the bottle of Chilean Chardonnay ($35USD) we quaffed all too quickly.
After lunch we roamed the decks and were quickly brought to the first stop on our tour of the area to a well worn tourist route. the "Cave Walk' was outstanding. An array of carved out steps took us and around 150 other tourists on an incredible journey deep inside one of the plethora of lime structures synonomous with this area. The cave was a large as a football field and as hot as Hades. Fighting off the stuffiness I was glad to see the exit but still amazed by the experience. Herded back on board we motored off to the next destination; swimming beach.
As we clamoured to gain full immersion we were rudely stopped in our tracks and directed through the ticket booth. Unfortunately we didn't have small enough local currency, so our kindly captain (fearing impending mutiny) dipped into his own pocket for us and told us we had only 15 minutes to enjoy!
We ran to the water and swum out to the nearby buoy where I overzealously circled it and it's large abrasive chain. Bleeding and smarting I exited the water and thanked the heavens that I was travelling with my pharmacist friend and her extensive booty of products. Fearing our 15 minutes of waterplay was over we headed back and our captain ushered us to the nearby steps to partake of the hill top view.
We climbed tentatively in our jandals up the carved from rock steps where we were told by our fellow tourists of the ensuing 400+ steps to the top! Valiantly we squelched all 400 steps to the viewing platform wheezing like asthmatics. Some other German aged 'David Attenborough' type gentleman had lugged the biggest camera and tripod I had ever seen up there to take some serious panoramic shots. We paused to enjoy the fruits of our labour briefly then headed back down.
Our legs weakened by the intense climb descended in a mind of their own, wobbling and tremouring at will.
Back on board again we head to; ''Dinner Bay'' and dropped anchor with a handful of similar vessels. Calm and balmy we relaxed with blue cocktails swinging our legs freely over the front of the unfenced vessel reveling in the pre dinner peace. Staff and passengers alike swam off the boat while we smiled on approvingly.
After showering and readying ourselves from the last swim we were reluctant to enter the well used bay for another dubious dipping especially with my recently abraised skin .
The dinner was extensive with great use of the local seafood. Stuffed crab bodies, large bbq-ed king prawns presented in lovingly carved vegetables, steamed fish and fried rice gave us another good stretching. Washed down with a nice French Savvy ($39USD) we sat for awhile outside on top deck before succumbing to the results of our gluttony and turned in for the night at around 9.30pm.
The room was slightly more comfortable than the deck of crudely padded/non existent deckchairs so we extended our hunched over bodies and fumbled fervently with the stubbornly stationery air con unit. I did manage to kick it into action switching every button I could find.
We began a night of tossing and turning in the heat in our small and moderately cushioned cots. Karen restlessly paced the 2m x 2m room and hung herself out the door in an effort for a temperature respite. We dozed fitfully before we finally began speaking at 6.30am.
Expectations high we dined at the hotel restaurant takingon ample nutrients to get us through the 3 hr drive to Ha Long Bay. Checking out but leaving our bags, we packed an overnight bag and were duly collected at 8.30am. The heat high but the car cooled by air con we set out of the city. Once the traffic thinned all bets were off as our driver hovered habitually over the centre line surging and weaving in turn through the haphazard traffic for three solid hours. Karen turned many shades of green mixed with red as the local driving technique infuriated her. The driver was lucky to escape without a good tongue lashing and follow up cuffing from behind.
As we neared Ha Long, the rain started. We were dropped off at a waiting station whe re we waited patiently for our changeover. We eyed up the other tourists and wondered which of the 600 junks that departed daily was ours. About an hour later (hungry as rabid dogs) we were ferried out to our floating palace (Ha Long Dream). The "Öne Square Meal" was handed out for medicinal use and again it saved the day.
Once on board we were revitalised by the waiting orange juice and the thought of the high seas. The rain had abated as we set sail/motor for the limestone valley.
Seated at beautifully laid out tables we waited impatiently for lunch to be served. With only seven passengers on board and more than seven staff we reveled in the peace. The 6-7 course meal was well received as was the bottle of Chilean Chardonnay ($35USD) we quaffed all too quickly.
After lunch we roamed the decks and were quickly brought to the first stop on our tour of the area to a well worn tourist route. the "Cave Walk' was outstanding. An array of carved out steps took us and around 150 other tourists on an incredible journey deep inside one of the plethora of lime structures synonomous with this area. The cave was a large as a football field and as hot as Hades. Fighting off the stuffiness I was glad to see the exit but still amazed by the experience. Herded back on board we motored off to the next destination; swimming beach.
As we clamoured to gain full immersion we were rudely stopped in our tracks and directed through the ticket booth. Unfortunately we didn't have small enough local currency, so our kindly captain (fearing impending mutiny) dipped into his own pocket for us and told us we had only 15 minutes to enjoy!
We ran to the water and swum out to the nearby buoy where I overzealously circled it and it's large abrasive chain. Bleeding and smarting I exited the water and thanked the heavens that I was travelling with my pharmacist friend and her extensive booty of products. Fearing our 15 minutes of waterplay was over we headed back and our captain ushered us to the nearby steps to partake of the hill top view.
We climbed tentatively in our jandals up the carved from rock steps where we were told by our fellow tourists of the ensuing 400+ steps to the top! Valiantly we squelched all 400 steps to the viewing platform wheezing like asthmatics. Some other German aged 'David Attenborough' type gentleman had lugged the biggest camera and tripod I had ever seen up there to take some serious panoramic shots. We paused to enjoy the fruits of our labour briefly then headed back down.
Our legs weakened by the intense climb descended in a mind of their own, wobbling and tremouring at will.
Back on board again we head to; ''Dinner Bay'' and dropped anchor with a handful of similar vessels. Calm and balmy we relaxed with blue cocktails swinging our legs freely over the front of the unfenced vessel reveling in the pre dinner peace. Staff and passengers alike swam off the boat while we smiled on approvingly.
After showering and readying ourselves from the last swim we were reluctant to enter the well used bay for another dubious dipping especially with my recently abraised skin .
The dinner was extensive with great use of the local seafood. Stuffed crab bodies, large bbq-ed king prawns presented in lovingly carved vegetables, steamed fish and fried rice gave us another good stretching. Washed down with a nice French Savvy ($39USD) we sat for awhile outside on top deck before succumbing to the results of our gluttony and turned in for the night at around 9.30pm.
The room was slightly more comfortable than the deck of crudely padded/non existent deckchairs so we extended our hunched over bodies and fumbled fervently with the stubbornly stationery air con unit. I did manage to kick it into action switching every button I could find.
We began a night of tossing and turning in the heat in our small and moderately cushioned cots. Karen restlessly paced the 2m x 2m room and hung herself out the door in an effort for a temperature respite. We dozed fitfully before we finally began speaking at 6.30am.
Tuesday, November 10, 2009
eek. accidentally posted without finishing
After a couple of hours we were worn down by the heat and negotiations so sought out some refreshments. A nice local (deserted) cafe served us up a couple of passion fruit slushees that were to die for. Temporarily hydrated we carried on. Another hour of shopping and we were ready for solids so we nipped into a classy three storey cafe/boutique called 'Tanmy'.
Mixing retail/dining and atmosphere we sauntered through the three levels, K fingering their linen while I holed up on one of their stylish sofas and availed myself of their free wifi on my iphone. Deciding to eat there we sat at a modern little eating area and ordered a couple of *savs (blancs as opposed to eloys) and beef salads and reveled in the peaceful surroundings complete with fish pond and styly coffee machine.
*We tried in vain to order a couple of Alan Scott Pinot Gris but had to settle on a French Savignon instead! Good Kiwi wine obviously popular.
Happy to pay the decent price for the serenity we languished on the Country Road like sofas as long as we could then used their stylish ablutions before heading back out to the mayhem of the streets.
3/4 stretched and wilting in the mid afternoon sun we decided to have "an experience" and haggled a price on a cyclos for a round trip of the lake for $5USD. Lurching around at snails pace we jammed two up in the seat for 1 and a half people and sweated buckets as we sat and enjoyed the watery inertia. Re-energised and oriented we headed back to a bag shop K had spotted, as our parcels now outnumbered our luggage. The first stop proved too inflexible without much choice so we pressed on and settle for $40USD for me (haggled from 60) on a hard case suitcase and $25USD (orig 40) for K for a patterned soft one. Our purchases packed safely inside the new purchase we headed back to the hotel to regroup before heading back out to dinner.
Showered and repacked into the new bags we headed for the roof top city view in the square. Up the lift to the fifth floor we eagerly ordered up a couple of long island teas and prawn crackers off the boy with the modern digital order machine. We got two black Russians and a bag of prawn crackers on a saucer. After several attempts to rectify the drinks order we gave in and took a couple of cursory photos and departed quite underwhelmed by the whole set up.
The square had touristy non-Vietnamese food to offer so we ventured further from the hotel in search of a restaurant our guide had recommended.
After a couple of laps of the area we settled on a kerbside seat at a nearby restaurant serving locals and tourists alike. We went straight to the good looking set menu for a $4USD/head and a couple of Gin and tonics later we could call it a dinner. A quick Pho soup to start followed by a fried fish with special sauce and a chicken and lemongrass dish left us happy in the knowledge we had dined like the locals. Weary and worn but not out we returned to our conveniently located abode and settled for another big day tomorrow and being collected at 8.30am for Ha Long Bay.
Mixing retail/dining and atmosphere we sauntered through the three levels, K fingering their linen while I holed up on one of their stylish sofas and availed myself of their free wifi on my iphone. Deciding to eat there we sat at a modern little eating area and ordered a couple of *savs (blancs as opposed to eloys) and beef salads and reveled in the peaceful surroundings complete with fish pond and styly coffee machine.
*We tried in vain to order a couple of Alan Scott Pinot Gris but had to settle on a French Savignon instead! Good Kiwi wine obviously popular.
Happy to pay the decent price for the serenity we languished on the Country Road like sofas as long as we could then used their stylish ablutions before heading back out to the mayhem of the streets.
3/4 stretched and wilting in the mid afternoon sun we decided to have "an experience" and haggled a price on a cyclos for a round trip of the lake for $5USD. Lurching around at snails pace we jammed two up in the seat for 1 and a half people and sweated buckets as we sat and enjoyed the watery inertia. Re-energised and oriented we headed back to a bag shop K had spotted, as our parcels now outnumbered our luggage. The first stop proved too inflexible without much choice so we pressed on and settle for $40USD for me (haggled from 60) on a hard case suitcase and $25USD (orig 40) for K for a patterned soft one. Our purchases packed safely inside the new purchase we headed back to the hotel to regroup before heading back out to dinner.
Showered and repacked into the new bags we headed for the roof top city view in the square. Up the lift to the fifth floor we eagerly ordered up a couple of long island teas and prawn crackers off the boy with the modern digital order machine. We got two black Russians and a bag of prawn crackers on a saucer. After several attempts to rectify the drinks order we gave in and took a couple of cursory photos and departed quite underwhelmed by the whole set up.
The square had touristy non-Vietnamese food to offer so we ventured further from the hotel in search of a restaurant our guide had recommended.
After a couple of laps of the area we settled on a kerbside seat at a nearby restaurant serving locals and tourists alike. We went straight to the good looking set menu for a $4USD/head and a couple of Gin and tonics later we could call it a dinner. A quick Pho soup to start followed by a fried fish with special sauce and a chicken and lemongrass dish left us happy in the knowledge we had dined like the locals. Weary and worn but not out we returned to our conveniently located abode and settled for another big day tomorrow and being collected at 8.30am for Ha Long Bay.
Day 9 9/8/09
We woke at 4am and dozed till 7am then planned our day of shopping in Hanoi. Determined not to continue over budget, I took out $60-80USD and another $100USD just to be safe. I came home with $12USD.
We meandered at leisure through the heated chaotic streets using the road along with all the vehicles as the pavements were stacked with parked scooters blocking our path. Prices here in the air conditioned shops are mostly fixed but some determined bartering won a few times.
We used the central lake located about 100m from our hotel as the centre point and fanned backwards and forwards from it in a bid to ensure we didnt get lost as the streets all looked the same. Ensconsed in the old quarter we found the streets of similar genre and marvelled at their plethora of goods going indoors where air conditioned when the mood struck.
The retail etiquette here was less demanding/irritating with some store owners not even coming near you. The heat seemed to slow them down as well as us. They have a system of discounting heavily for the first sale of the day to bring them good luck. Not sure how many firsts they had as they sure didnt look like virgins to me!
We meandered at leisure through the heated chaotic streets using the road along with all the vehicles as the pavements were stacked with parked scooters blocking our path. Prices here in the air conditioned shops are mostly fixed but some determined bartering won a few times.
We used the central lake located about 100m from our hotel as the centre point and fanned backwards and forwards from it in a bid to ensure we didnt get lost as the streets all looked the same. Ensconsed in the old quarter we found the streets of similar genre and marvelled at their plethora of goods going indoors where air conditioned when the mood struck.
The retail etiquette here was less demanding/irritating with some store owners not even coming near you. The heat seemed to slow them down as well as us. They have a system of discounting heavily for the first sale of the day to bring them good luck. Not sure how many firsts they had as they sure didnt look like virgins to me!
Wednesday, October 14, 2009
Day 8
Day 8
A quick bike ride at dawn (7am) over the bridge to the outlying village areas proved interesting and worth a look. A concrete, recently laid road led us about three kms through a waking populace on a peninsula like area. Intermittent rain couldn’t dampen our soaring spirits as we biked free as birds or mothers on holiday before parking our bikes and entering the city market once more in search of a pre breakfast snack.
Back to the pancake lady after passing new and exciting sights of croaking frogs just before they were skinned alive and snake/eels slithering in a bucket as we were ushered to seats (wooden slats) where the plastic table cloth was lovingly placed and we partook of a bowl of the local specialty, Cao Lau noodles.
Temporarily sated we returned to the hotel on bikes and showered and packed and took one last meal at the resort . Five plates of brekky later, we rested briefly in the room before being collected. We waved our superfriendly super assertive Hoi Anians farewell and headed for the airport.
The flight was large and quick. Blue skies emerged as we headed away from Monsoon Hoi An. Upon landing, our trusty tour guide awaited. A cute looking Asian Leonardo DiCaprio called Sun (pron. Soon) swaggered confidently grinning charismatically at us. We put him to work immediately protecting our luggage while we relieved ourselves at the nearby WC.
Forty minutes into a racy Hanoi then a ten minute turnaround at the hotel and we were bundled back into our "çar" for the three hour walking tour to orient ourselves around Hanoi (capital of Vietnam). Dropped in peak traffic around the French quarter we walked through vast expanses of land put aside for governmental fancies like Ho Chi Mihn’s mausoleum, the temple of Literature and the President’s palace. We dutifully followed the less than exuberant but nevertheless knowledgeable Sun as he waited patiently outside while we investigated the ins and outs of the historical hot spots.
Three hours later and as hungry as wolves, we bid Sun goodbye and high tailed it up to our 7th floor bar that had been sadly left to rack and ruin and ordered restorative G and T’s with a seafood and beef noodle chaser revelling in the freedom and air high above the chaos of downtown Hanoi.
With full stomachs and heads buzzing we returned to our modern conveniently chilled rooms to shower off the day and slip into our robes for a well deserved rest.
A quick bike ride at dawn (7am) over the bridge to the outlying village areas proved interesting and worth a look. A concrete, recently laid road led us about three kms through a waking populace on a peninsula like area. Intermittent rain couldn’t dampen our soaring spirits as we biked free as birds or mothers on holiday before parking our bikes and entering the city market once more in search of a pre breakfast snack.
Back to the pancake lady after passing new and exciting sights of croaking frogs just before they were skinned alive and snake/eels slithering in a bucket as we were ushered to seats (wooden slats) where the plastic table cloth was lovingly placed and we partook of a bowl of the local specialty, Cao Lau noodles.
Temporarily sated we returned to the hotel on bikes and showered and packed and took one last meal at the resort . Five plates of brekky later, we rested briefly in the room before being collected. We waved our superfriendly super assertive Hoi Anians farewell and headed for the airport.
The flight was large and quick. Blue skies emerged as we headed away from Monsoon Hoi An. Upon landing, our trusty tour guide awaited. A cute looking Asian Leonardo DiCaprio called Sun (pron. Soon) swaggered confidently grinning charismatically at us. We put him to work immediately protecting our luggage while we relieved ourselves at the nearby WC.
Forty minutes into a racy Hanoi then a ten minute turnaround at the hotel and we were bundled back into our "çar" for the three hour walking tour to orient ourselves around Hanoi (capital of Vietnam). Dropped in peak traffic around the French quarter we walked through vast expanses of land put aside for governmental fancies like Ho Chi Mihn’s mausoleum, the temple of Literature and the President’s palace. We dutifully followed the less than exuberant but nevertheless knowledgeable Sun as he waited patiently outside while we investigated the ins and outs of the historical hot spots.
Three hours later and as hungry as wolves, we bid Sun goodbye and high tailed it up to our 7th floor bar that had been sadly left to rack and ruin and ordered restorative G and T’s with a seafood and beef noodle chaser revelling in the freedom and air high above the chaos of downtown Hanoi.
With full stomachs and heads buzzing we returned to our modern conveniently chilled rooms to shower off the day and slip into our robes for a well deserved rest.
Friday, October 2, 2009
Day 7
8/9 Having become acclimatised after four days in Vietnam we now wake at 7am. Back to the hotel breakfast, less tantalising the second time we rehydrated and took on board vital nutrients essential for another days adventures.
Keen to explore the city’s history we geared up against the elements in our trusty blue plastic pullovers and stylish accessory footwear and headed for the central market that we had hurriedly passed through the day before en route to the tailor’s appointment. Cramped into the space the size of a football field stood an array of merchants squatting either side of the narrow walkways, wares resplendent in circular cane platters. We passed noodle merchants, seafood merchants, butchering merchants, and fresh green vege merchants and backed up by trinket stall holders. The food merchants ignored us realising the futility of selling us fresh produce while the ‘trinket’ stall holders sang their local chant of ‘’You come my shop, plllllease”.
Thwarted by the deluge of rain but grateful for our waterproof shoes we mingled amongst the organised madness beneath the tarpaulin village architecturally engineered to provide fresh rain water for washing and cooking on site. Locals and tourists mixed alike with locals gathering their daily needs of fresh food with the tourists happy to gaze on in wonder.
Regardless of our already stretched stomachs we decided to roam dangerously close to risking a perforation of the wall and settled near a food stall to try the pancake like snacks the woman was making. We ordered one and I tried it to test for poisoning. Unscathed we shared it and promptly ordered another. The crispy exterior was filled with lettuce, herbs and shrimp then folded in half tortilla like and wrapped in a conveniently edible rice paper and dipped in some undistinguishable sauce. Mmmmm was the result. Curiosity assuaged we ventured out the other side of the market and made for the historical sites dotted about the city previously researched in the room.
*Quick pit stop to gather our thoughts and down a cheeky Mojito (because we could).
Voucher purchased we pressed on through the continuing downpour. Small running streams had now formed but undeterred we oohed and aahed over the Japanese bridge built four centuries before, toured through the oldest house in Hoi An walked through by the latest of the eight generations that had lived there, lurked about an old Cantonese temple (trying, unsuccessfully to mount the spiritual horse for a photo opportunity) and read studiously through an architectural presentation of local construction. Sodden and hungry again, we decided to seek refuge in a nearby cafe. Having become disoriented we ended up back at the same restaurant as last night (The Mermaid) and partook of a satisfying lunch of Cau Lao noodles and groper fillet sliced with bone in and covered in herbs and spices.
Now exhausted from all our experiences and wet through we hurried back to the hotel to dry out and relax ready for our day spa treatment booked for mid afternoon. My overzealous relaxing on the outdoor beds was brought to an abrupt halt as K motioned us in the direction of the day spa.
Dazedly I readied myself hoping I could soon return to that state of bliss. We filled out the required medical information forms, drank the potentially lethal liquid offered and followed our therapist into the changing room where we were told in Vietnamese to ‘’nude up’ and don the plastic undies.
Obediently, dressed in day spa gowns sporting cane sandals we were gently frog marched into our separate treatment rooms. K’s eyes rolled completely around in her head as she was led by the youthful non homosexual boy to her room. Once inside the room I lay face down gazing through the hole in the bed to a bowl of perfectly arranged rocks and waited for the magic to begin. Previous to this my feet were cleaned and energised in a bowl of tepid water alive with large amounts of lemon grass and mint. Ninety minutes of medium/severe manipulation left me pummelled into shape. The over earnest kneading of the scalp and face technique was new to me and not one I would like repeated. The ensuing salt scrub felt like an itch I needed scratching but quite abrasive and aggressive at the same time. I was hoping she would leave me one or two layers of dermis to go home with. Two hours later I was told to shower in the room whereupon she departed and left me unsure whether this was the end. Cleaned and scrubbed literally, I wandered back into reception where I was told to get back to my room so my therapist could then lead me back to reception.
Reunited again, K and I headed back into town briefly to collect my tailor made shoes then back to the happy hour at the resort to relax like Colonials over ginger cocktails in high back rattan chairs wiling away the evening gnawing on bar snacks and waiting for our Vietnamese orders to eat at leisure. Another early night (well we are getting on) ready for a 10am pick up to fly to Hanoi tomorrow.
Keen to explore the city’s history we geared up against the elements in our trusty blue plastic pullovers and stylish accessory footwear and headed for the central market that we had hurriedly passed through the day before en route to the tailor’s appointment. Cramped into the space the size of a football field stood an array of merchants squatting either side of the narrow walkways, wares resplendent in circular cane platters. We passed noodle merchants, seafood merchants, butchering merchants, and fresh green vege merchants and backed up by trinket stall holders. The food merchants ignored us realising the futility of selling us fresh produce while the ‘trinket’ stall holders sang their local chant of ‘’You come my shop, plllllease”.
Thwarted by the deluge of rain but grateful for our waterproof shoes we mingled amongst the organised madness beneath the tarpaulin village architecturally engineered to provide fresh rain water for washing and cooking on site. Locals and tourists mixed alike with locals gathering their daily needs of fresh food with the tourists happy to gaze on in wonder.
Regardless of our already stretched stomachs we decided to roam dangerously close to risking a perforation of the wall and settled near a food stall to try the pancake like snacks the woman was making. We ordered one and I tried it to test for poisoning. Unscathed we shared it and promptly ordered another. The crispy exterior was filled with lettuce, herbs and shrimp then folded in half tortilla like and wrapped in a conveniently edible rice paper and dipped in some undistinguishable sauce. Mmmmm was the result. Curiosity assuaged we ventured out the other side of the market and made for the historical sites dotted about the city previously researched in the room.
*Quick pit stop to gather our thoughts and down a cheeky Mojito (because we could).
Voucher purchased we pressed on through the continuing downpour. Small running streams had now formed but undeterred we oohed and aahed over the Japanese bridge built four centuries before, toured through the oldest house in Hoi An walked through by the latest of the eight generations that had lived there, lurked about an old Cantonese temple (trying, unsuccessfully to mount the spiritual horse for a photo opportunity) and read studiously through an architectural presentation of local construction. Sodden and hungry again, we decided to seek refuge in a nearby cafe. Having become disoriented we ended up back at the same restaurant as last night (The Mermaid) and partook of a satisfying lunch of Cau Lao noodles and groper fillet sliced with bone in and covered in herbs and spices.
Now exhausted from all our experiences and wet through we hurried back to the hotel to dry out and relax ready for our day spa treatment booked for mid afternoon. My overzealous relaxing on the outdoor beds was brought to an abrupt halt as K motioned us in the direction of the day spa.
Dazedly I readied myself hoping I could soon return to that state of bliss. We filled out the required medical information forms, drank the potentially lethal liquid offered and followed our therapist into the changing room where we were told in Vietnamese to ‘’nude up’ and don the plastic undies.
Obediently, dressed in day spa gowns sporting cane sandals we were gently frog marched into our separate treatment rooms. K’s eyes rolled completely around in her head as she was led by the youthful non homosexual boy to her room. Once inside the room I lay face down gazing through the hole in the bed to a bowl of perfectly arranged rocks and waited for the magic to begin. Previous to this my feet were cleaned and energised in a bowl of tepid water alive with large amounts of lemon grass and mint. Ninety minutes of medium/severe manipulation left me pummelled into shape. The over earnest kneading of the scalp and face technique was new to me and not one I would like repeated. The ensuing salt scrub felt like an itch I needed scratching but quite abrasive and aggressive at the same time. I was hoping she would leave me one or two layers of dermis to go home with. Two hours later I was told to shower in the room whereupon she departed and left me unsure whether this was the end. Cleaned and scrubbed literally, I wandered back into reception where I was told to get back to my room so my therapist could then lead me back to reception.
Reunited again, K and I headed back into town briefly to collect my tailor made shoes then back to the happy hour at the resort to relax like Colonials over ginger cocktails in high back rattan chairs wiling away the evening gnawing on bar snacks and waiting for our Vietnamese orders to eat at leisure. Another early night (well we are getting on) ready for a 10am pick up to fly to Hanoi tomorrow.
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